By Michael Lam
Translated by Yu Zhang
The 41st annual Vancouver International Wine Festival took place between February 23-March 3, 2019. I have attended this world class festival since the mid-90s and am always interested to share my experience.
Each year I would attend various events such as dinners, seminars, trade and public tastings but my focus is always in the tasting hall which my mission is to look for fine wines that do not hurt my own bank accounts while deliver maximum enjoyment!
An approximately 250 samples were tasted this year by me from 4 tasting sessions as well as two seminars.
Here I would like to pick a few wines that might interest you. These wines are based on their countries of origin, grape varietals, wine styles, affordability, availability and with or without food pairing in mind but most of all they have to fit well into my Low Price / Quality Ratio test with a few exceptions.
1
Winery: Monte Creek Ranch
Name: Monte Creek Riesling
Country: Canada
Region: Emerging Region, Kamloops, BC
Varietal: Riesling
Vintage: 2017
Price: $15-20 before tax
Score: 98-91 points
Yes! Kamloops…who on earth would th ink Kamloops can produce a quality Riesling? Monte Creek Ranch is one of the fastest growing wineries in BC. It’s a primarily a ranch that raises black Angus cattle. They also have a bee colony which pollinate their blueberry farm. The winery is on 1,200 acres in the Southern Thompson Valley of which approximately 70 acres of vines are planted. They specialise in making cool climate wines using their estate grown grapes as well as sourcing fruits from Southern Okanagan to make their bigger red wines.
I like their dry Riesling as it has lifted acidity with firm minerality. Lemon blossom, citrus oil and a hint of petrol can be detected from the nose. The light bodied wine is clean, fresh and sleek with adequate structure. It’s a little hidden gem from our backyard that fits everyone’s budget!
Suggested food pairing: green salad with light dressings, steamed seafood.
2
Winery: Vasse Felix
Name: Filius Chardonnay
Country: Australia
Region: Margaret River
Varietal: Chardonnay
Vintage: 2017
Price: Approximately $30 before tax
Score: 90-92 Points
Vasse Felix, founded in 1967, was the first vineyard and winery to be established in the Margaret River wine region of Western Australia. It is recognised as a pioneer of the region and a Margaret River icon.
Margaret River is nestled in the South West corner of Australia. Unlikely most regions of Australia, the climate of Margaret River is strongly influenced by the ocean. To compare, the climate is similar of Bordeaux thus the wines are balanced and with much natural acidity.
Both the Vasse Felix Filius chardonnay as well as their chardonnay were tasted.
This pale straw coloured medium bodied Chardonnay has a nose and taste of lemon blossom, both stone and tropical fruit intermixed with almond sprinkle, vanilla and toasted bread. It’s not heavy nor overladen but beautifully balanced by its natural acidity. A very well-made wine indeed. Readers that should take note that the Filius Chardonnay has a relatively Low Price / Quality ratio currently under CAD$30.
Suggested food pairing: From various
seafood to white poultry and pork dishes.
3
Winery: 8th Generation Vineyard
Name: Classic Riesling
Country: Canada
Region: Summerland, Okanagan
Varietal: Riesling
Vintage: 2018
Price: $20
Rating: 89-91
8th Generation produces an off dry Riesling with over
22 g/ litre. The Riesling classic here has a residual sugar of <10 g/ litre thus is considered dry. I have always admired the Riesling from the winery run by German Canadian couple Bernd and Stefanie Schales. Perhaps its 8 generations of grape growing and wine making experience or may be German perfectionists. All in all, they make impressive Riesling wines that I fall in love with.
The Riesling Classic here is made from vines that are 30 years old that’s grown in Okanagan Falls with very light, sandy soil. The yield rate is naturally low thus the flavours and concentration are preserved. Harvest decision is based on acidity to make sure that the wine is fresh and vibrant. This Riesling has typical lemon and apple scents on the nose. The acidity keeps the wine fresh while as the minerality is profound. Readers if being lucky, should Seek and get hold of their hard to find Riesling Selection which is only produced in approved vintages.
4
Winery: Beaulieu Vineyard
Name: Merlot
Country: USA
Region: Napa Valley
Varietal: Merlot
Vintage: 2016
Price: Approximately $25
Score: 89-91 points
Beaulieu Vineyard which means Beautiful Place was founded in 1900 by Georges de Latour and his wife, Fernande. BV, pioneer in importing Phylloxera-resistant rootstock from Europe to the then ravaged fledgling California wine industry and sold sacramental wine to the Catholic Church during the prohibition period. Continuous innovation in vineyard, winery and clonal research is the philosophy behind this Napa icon that remains so today.
This is a medium to full body wine with juicy dark berries and plum fruit with a hint of chocolate. Good acidity with silky tannin structure and a warm satisfying finish. Extra credit for a Low Price / Quality ratio.
Food pairing: Duck, veal, assorted sausages.
5
Winery: Grigich Hills Estate
Name: Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Country: USA
Region: Napa Valley
Varietal: 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot,
5% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc
Vintage :2015
Price: > $100
Score: 93-95 points
Mike Grigich first gained international recognition at the celebrated “Judgement of Paris Tasting” in 1976 of which a panel of French judges chose his 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay in preference to the famed French White Burgundies in a blind tasting. A year later, Mike decided to start his own venture in a partnership thus Grigich Hills was born.
Committed to making distinctive wines with quality, consistency and longevity with natural winegrowing and sustainability. These wines are often chosen to serve state dinners. Here I am going to talk about their Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and not Chardonnay.
This was probably one of the most perfect wines out of all wines I tasted during the festival. This wine has all the hallmarks of a quality of Napa cab. Like a well toned body builder, this complex wine possesses tons of dark fruits such as black currents, blackberries, dark plums intermixed with cedar, cinnamon chocolate, sweet pipe tobacco and saddle leather. The acidity is adequate to make the wine vibrant and the tannin is soft and silky in the full-bodied wine. Layered and complex. Don’t forget to decant liberally but will be rewarded with mid to long term aging.
Food Pairing: Rare steak, hearty meat stew, dark poultry.
6
Winery: J. Lohr Vineyards and Wines
Name: Hilltop Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Country: California
Region: Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo
Varietal: 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Malbec,
1% Petit Verdot
Vintage: 2015
Price: Approximately $45
Rating: 91-93 points
Jerry Lohr has been synonymous with pioneering innovation on the Central Coast. J.Lohr wines has also been synonymous with great quality fruits and wines that do not hurt the bank account.
I singled out the 2015 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon to show everyone that a great Cabernet wines are not just from Napa and Sonoma but from other regions like Paso Robles if the sites and terroirs are ideal.
This is for big cabernet lovers. This dark coloured full-bodied dense cabernet possesses dark cassis fruit, chocolate, graphite and anise spice. The finish is long. A true quality Cabernet Sauvignon for a relatively affordable price.
Food Pairing: Rare steak, hearty meat stew, dark poultry.
7
Winery: Ravenswood
Name: Teldeschi Vineyard Zinfandel
Country: USA
Region: Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County
Varietal: 76% Zinfandel (a.k.a. Primitivo),
19% Petite Sirah, 5% Carignane
Vintage: 2016
Price: Approximately $45
Score: 91-93 points
When Ravenswood is mentioned then anyone who has been drinking wine would akin with Zinfandel.
The 2014 Teldeschi Vineyard Zinfandel is a full-bodied wine with inky colour and rich aromas of ripe blueberry, blackberry, dry prune, licorice, dark chocolate, and black pepper. It’s jammy, powerful and forceful but not coarse. This a big concentrated wine and is not for the faint hearted!
Food Pairing: Rare, aged blackened T-bone steak, game sausages, red meat, BBQ ribs.
8
Winery: Hann Family Wines
Name: Pinot Noir Monterey County
Country: USA
Region: Monterey County
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2017
Price: Approximately $25
Rating: 89-91 points
The Hahn Family Winery is situated in Monterrey county. Here the Cool winds from Monterey Bay ensure gradual ripening and ideal development of vibrant flavors of their different varietals.
While this is not aristocratic labelled Pinot; it is, for sure, a crown pleaser especially for the affordable price.
A soft, round medium body wine full of pinot characters of ripe strawberry, raspberry and red plum with a hint of cola and sweet spice. This is a wine that may be enjoyed with or without food is versatile to pair with a wide spectrum of dishes.
Food pairing: Turkey dinner, pan fried pork cutlets.
9
Winery: Talbott Vineyards
Name: Sleepy Hollow Pinot Noir
Country: USA
Region: Santa Lucia Highlands / Monterrey County
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2018
Score: 90-92 points
I love this pinot! It’s a soft round plump style pinot with good red and black cherry characters and sweet baking spices (think cinnamon, nutmeg). The well priced pinot is a steal. Well balanced with adequate acidity. The long, moderate and dry growing season of Satna Lucia enhances complex and healthy fruit that made into this wine.
Food pairing: Turkey dinner, roast pigeon.
10
Winery: Trivento
Name: Golden Reserve Malbec
Country: Argentina
Region: Luján de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza
Varietal: Malbec
Vintage: 2016
Price: Approximately $25
Rating: 91-93
Malbec, a minor blending grape from Bordeaux has become an Argentina national treasure! A fine Malbec is not necessarily a big wine – this is not. In fact, the Golden reserve is an antidote to many thick Malbec that flood the market. Aromas of blackberries, fragrant, herbal (mint and oregano) with an undertone of vanilla and black pepper. The tannin is well integrated with adequate acidity and modest alcohol levels leads to a lengthy, clean and balanced finish.
Food Pairing: game sausages, red meat, BBQ ribs.
11
Winery: Fairview Cellars
Wine: The Bear (Reserve Meritage)
Region: Golden Mile Bench
Varietal: Classic Bordeaux Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot
Vintage: 2016
Price: Approximately $40
Rating: 90-92 points
How shall I start here…almost 20 years ago when I visited Southern Okanagan near Oliver, I stumbled into a sign that led me to a hut next to a golf course to sample Bill Eggert’s wine. I had to ring a bell and up came a friendly guy who welcomed me and personally poured samples of his wine. That’s the introduction of one of my first quality BC reds then.
Although Bill has a variety of single varietal wines as well as blends, I think the Bear would be, may I say, the quintessential wine to taste from this one-man band winery.
A mixed of red and black berry and current fruits with a hint of tobacco, bell pepper, with herbal notes and anise spice. Medium acidity. This is a reasonably complex wine that demands mid term aging.
Pairing: Bear sausages, BBQ ranch steak.
12
Winery: One Faith
Name: Malbec – Petite Verdot (50%/50%)
Region: Okanagan / Black Sage – Osoyoos
Varietal Malbec (50%), Petit Verdot (50%)
Vintage: 2016
Rating: 90-92 points
Price: $30
One Faith is a dream project of proprietor Bill Lui, a successful businessman who has a deep passion in wine. His desire was to craft the best wine, a ‘First Growth’, from BC. Bill assembled a dream team that demands the best from start to finish by sourcing the best vineyards to grow Bordeaux / near Bordeaux varietals. Every detail is given to, from precise viticulture practice, to innovative wine making, to barrel selection and aging. Bill has proved that with relentless pursuit, outstanding wines can be made from our own BC terroir.
This is an unusual and unique blend as both Malbec and Petite Verdot are traditionally, minor blending grapes of Bordeaux. Here the Malbec contributes to much colour, sweet tannin and dark plumb, damson fruit while as the Petit Verdot contributes both tannin and structure as well as violet and fragrant perfume component of the wine. I singled out this wine as it showcases these components of the One Faith Grand Vin. The wine is deep purple in colour, has good acidity and fruit level and is suitable with mid-term cellaring.
13
Winery: Chateau Pesquie
Name: Artemia
Country: France
Region Ventoux
Varietal: Syrah (50%), Grenache (50%)
Vintage 2016
Rating: 93-95 points
Price: Approximately $50
There is evidence that the Côtes du Ventoux Appellation is one of the oldest wine producing areas in France and vine cultivation at Château Pesquié dates back to two thousand years ago!
Artemis is the top cuvée of Chateau Pesquié. It is an attempt to show the amazing potential of the Ventoux terroir through two single high-altitude old vine vineyards, one of Grenache and one of Syrah. Old vines, with poor soil and high altitude mean the vines are naturally low yield, the roots are grown deep to seek nutrients and the diurnal temperature difference preserve much natural acidity. This wine has great density, complexity, concentration, structure and yet elegant and fresh. It has all the hallmarks of a fine wine and it was one of the best wines I tasted at the festival. Readers must also taste both the Quintessence Rouge and the Terrasses Rouge which are quality wines of their own rights from Pesquie.
14
Winery: Gil Family Estate
Name: Atteca Old Vines Garnacha
Country: Spain
Region: Calatayud
Varietal: Garnacha (Grenache)
Vintage: 2016
Rating: 91-93 points
Price: Approximately $30
Old vines of Garnacha, some of them as old as the early 1900s, are planted on the high altitude at about 3,000 ft above sea level. Again, the combination of old vines and high-altitude vineyards create fine, complex wine with concentration and depth. This is another classic example.
Rich dark cherry and plum flavors are followed by mint, orange peel notes in this red wine, which has soft round tannins, bright acidity and a spicy finish.
Suggested Food Pairings: Rice, pasta, vegetables, mushroom, stewed meat, sausage, pork, roast, pan fried and grilled meat.
15
Winery: Gil Family Estate
Name: Silver Label Monastrell
Country: Spain
Region: Jumilla
Varietal: Monastrell (Mourvèdre)
Vintage: 2016
Rating: 91-93 points
Price: Approximately $25
Old vines of Mouvedre planted on high altitude vineyards above 2,000 ft with poor soil and the extreme harsh condition of Jumilla created deep rooted vines which translates into another fine wine with from the Gil family.
Deep purple/black color. Explosive aromas of ripe currant, red berries and smoked notes. Rich, powerful and voluminous on the attack, a huge mouthful of crème-de-cassis concentration, silken and juicy in the mid-palate with excellent length and persistence, and a long spicy well-balanced finish including toasted notes provided by the French wood.
Suggested Food Pairing: stewed meat, stewed vegetable, mushroom, poultry, fish with sauce, smoked seafood, red meat, roast meat.
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